Sitting precariously above the Pacific Ring of Fire on the Malay Archipelago, Indonesia is home to numerous active volcanoes that can erupt unpredictably, making it a destination worthy of both awe and fear. This made my team’s escapades in East Java all the more exciting, providing us with stark reminders of the dangers these volcanoes pose. In fact, two Singaporean tourists were killed in 2004 at Mt Bromo when it suddenly erupted without warning, in the very same spot where I stood on the volcano’s crater. Yet the breathtaking scene that emerged in the morning mist drove away my fear, reinforcing my decision to experience the area’s stunning beauty.

Story: Manachai Inkaew | Photos: Gaid Phitthayakornsilp

Initially, I was met with many raised eyebrows when I told people I was planning to travel to Indonesia’s second largest city, Surabaya. ‘What inspired you to go there? Are you sure? Is it safe?’ I answered them all with confidence, saying the trip would be a new and unforgettable experience that would give me a chance to discover two awe-inspiring natural creations - the active volcanoes of Mt Ijen and Mt Bromo.

Getting to Indonesia from Bangkok is an easy affair. There are several flights available through Indonesia’s national carrier Garuda and low-cost airline Air Asia, which offers two direct flights daily to the capital city of Jakarta. It was late evening when I departed Bangkok for the three-and-a-half hour flight to Jakarta’s Soekarno-Hatta International Airport, which arrived close to midnight. The following morning I caught a quick one-hour flight to Surabaya.

As one would expect, the Surabaya airport was designed in the traditional Indonesian style, offering a sense of harmony between the terminal and the native way of life. The first impression we had of the Indonesian people was derived from the genuine smile on the face of the local tour guide who greeted us at the exit hall.

Hari tells us he has been driving for the tour company for a long time, and eventually became an English-speaking guide as well. After giving us our itinerary briefing, Hari drives us out of Surabaya to bring us to our first destination, Mount Ijen, which is a seven to eight hour drive. Fortunately the traffic is moving at a nice pace, allowing us to enjoy the scenery which includes the greenery of local plantations such as rice and sugar cane fields.

We aren’t cruising for long before Hari stops at an interesting but odd attraction near the outskirts of Surabaya, dubbed ‘mud village’. Here, many deserted houses sit in a sea of mud, a surprisingly beautiful sight through the camera lens. Beauty aside, the village’s deserted state is actually a source of great bitterness for its former residents, given the flooding was caused by oil drilling. The controversial situation remains an unresolved issue between the villagers and the government, however the site itself is still included on many tour programs for foreigners to visit.

As we near the mountainous Ijen area, the rain pours down to make the plantations appear even greener. The sun is setting as we approach the Merapi-Maelang Reserve and although the rain continues to pour our van keeps right on rolling down the bumpy road. The front headlights of the van shine through the twilight, allowing us to view the white fog that covers the whole mountain. Eventually we arrive at the home stay where we will spend the night, and from the aromatic smell wafting around me it’s quite clear I will be sleeping in the middle of a coffee field.

When we step into the home stay, there is indeed coffee brewed for us to enjoy. It is a setting as comfortable as an international resort, yet with the surrounding coffee field, nearby hot springs and the friendly smiles of the local hosts the home stay offers something even more special, a feeling of joy and contentedness.

Early the following morning we set off on a short drive to the base of Mt Ijen, where a welcome board greets us before we begin our exciting two-hour trek up to the active volcano’s crater.

East Java’s natural wonder of Kawah Ijen (Ijen Crater) sits at a height of 2,300 meters above sea level. Perhaps the most impressive characteristic of this marvel is its large turquoise lake. At the bottom of the crater beside the lake is a labour-intensive sulphur mining site near an active vent at the edge of the lake, which is a source of elemental sulphur. The escaping volcanic gasses are channelled through a network of ceramic pipes, resulting in the condensation of molten sulphur. When it is cooled it turns yellow and is broken into large pieces that are carried up around 200 metres to the crater rim before being carried down the hill.

The first leg of the walk up to the crater is in good condition and offers enough space for a four-wheel drive car. No vehicles are allowed on this path, however, as it is the only route available for the miners to carry the heavy sulphur plates down the mountain.
Every five minutes I have to press myself against the rock wall to give way to one of the many miners carrying the plates in baskets on their shoulders. I’m told those plates weigh around 70-100 kilograms, yet the workers receive a wage of around just US$5 per day.

The scenery along the path includes lush plantations covered in a floating white fog however the picture is continuously changing in line with the weather. After a short flirtation with the bright sky, a covering of thick fog or showering rain will emerge at the drop of a hat. Regardless, the forest here is still fertile and untouched, providing a serene setting for the trek. On my way up, apart from the fabulous view of different varieties of foliage covering the sloping valley and mountain I witness impish wild monkeys teasing one another on the top of a tree.

Suddenly, the crater appears right in front of us, the fog floating over it increasing the already dramatic view. The vast caldera of the crater is stunning, with some parts of its floor spouting thick, white smoke up into the sky. In contrast, the huge turquoise-coloured lake sits right below the caldera.

After a brief moment of enjoyment viewing the crater under the clear skies, the picturesque scene is once again hidden by the thick mist. I’m told these sudden changes occur because the area is actually a microclimate, meaning it sits in its own atmospheric zone where the climate differs from the surrounding area. Sure enough, before long the sky becomes clear once again to give me a direct view of the miners hard at work at the bottom of the crater. Tourists are advised to wear masks to filter the sulphurous gas when visiting the crater, however many of the local miners are not aware of this risk so without sufficient protection they are susceptible to numerous respiratory problems.

Mt Ijen last erupted in the year 1999 and I am told by the local guide that it is expected to explode once again this year, however nature is always unpredictable so it’s difficult to determine exactly when. Fortunately, the great mountain decided to refrain from belching its fiery contents during our visit.

Having been impressed by my first incident-free experience up close with an active volcano, I looked forward to the journey to Mt Bromo, which is said to be incredibly picturesque, especially at sunrise. The van took us down a road that passed through several Indonesian communities along the way. About five hours later we reached our resort, in late afternoon, opposite the great Mt Bromo. The evening atmosphere in the area was simply wonderful, with a cool wind forcing me to warm myself up with a sweater. After enjoying the ambiance for a while, I said goodnight to the sparkling stars in the Indonesian sky and readied myself to say hello to the gorgeous morning sun and the adventures the next day would bring.

The next day came exceptionally fast, as I had to get myself ready at around 4am if I was to witness the sunrise. The four-wheel drive adventure vehicle then took us to Mt Penanjakan, 2,700 metres above sea level, where we waited for the highlight of the morning.

Mt Bromo, 2,382 meters above sea level, is one of the most actively promoted attractions in East Java, located some 145kms from Surabaya in Tengger-Semeru National Park. Within its huge caldera there are two peaks: Mt Bromo, which is still an active volcano, and the dormant Mt Batok.

Starting at around 5am tourists begin to gather at the observation post, getting their cameras ready for the first light of dawn. I survey the infinite compound of Mt Bromo with its vast caldera covered with white mist, through which I can see the peak of Mt Batok. Further in the distance is the apparent background of Mt Semeru, which creates an incredible scene every 30 minutes when it spits ashes out of its crater.

After enjoying a cup of fresh coffee at the observation point on Mt Penanjakan, I visit other lookouts to enjoy unbelievably beautiful views of the mountain group. Late morning, the jeep takes me to have a closer look at Mt Bromo. As we drive, the mist disappears to reveal a vast sea of sand, with Mt Bromo lying in the distance. Somewhere in the middle of that sea the jeep stops, and I’m told it will take an hour of walking to reach Bromo’s base. Or, there is a better option for the less-energetic: visitors can ride a pony for 50,000 Rupiah. I chose to experience the latter, enjoying the ride through the sand from the top of a horse, passing a Hindu temple before reaching the foot of Mt Bromo. Still to go are about 250 steps all tourists must climb.

Mt Bromo is considered a sacred place for the local people. Every year on the 14th day of full moon Kesodo (Tengger Calendar), the people of the Tengger mountain range gather at the rim of this active crater to make holy offerings of rice, fruits, vegetables, flowers, livestock and other local products to the god of mountain.

Frighteningly, Mt Bromo really is a live volcano that erupts with disturbing regularity. As mentioned earlier, in 2004 two tourists were killed here so visitors are warned to keep their distance if the mountain is acting up. Tour guides must check with local geologists who can normally predict the state of the volcano and the associated danger level.

Fortunately, Mt Bromo remained still during my visit and shortly after my pony takes me back to the jeep for another short drive through the sea of sand. In front of me lies a savannah surrounded by several small low-rise mountains. Looking behind me, I can see a clear view of the curvy and narrow road down from Mt Bromo. The general scene is a kaleidoscope of green. Hari, the local guide, says that almost all resorts and tour-related activities are owned and operated by local people so that they can preserve their way of life, unlike many popular tourist destinations that end up changing for the worst.

My trip to Indonesia has changed many of my perceptions toward this Muslim country and its rich natural resources. The country’s unspoiled environment is at harmony with the land’s people, while the locals themselves spend their daily lives treating nature with respect. It gives me much to contemplate, leading me to conclude that we must stop abusing our natural surroundings and balance our lives with our environment, protecting what nature has given us for the generations to come.

Special Thanks Indonesia Air Asia for providing flights to the ‘Breath of God’. For more information, please visit www.airasia.com.  To reach our adventurous trip experts in Surabaya, please contact Global Adventure Indonesia at www.globaladventureindonesia.com

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